Which printing method is right for my clothing?
The choice depends on three factors: quantity, material and design. Transfer printing is suitable for small quantities; DTF or DTG for photorealistic designs; screen printing for large runs with solid colour areas; and embroidery for maximum durability. Embroidery and screen-printed transfers are the most durable. Kustom does not charge set-up costs for screens and stencils; only the embroidery programme is charged as a one-off fee.
- Processes for textiles
- Screen printing, screen-printed transfers, cut-and-apply transfers (flex), DTF, DTG, sublimation, direct embroidery, embroidered, woven and PVC badges
- The most durable solution
- Embroidery or screen-printed transfer
- Screens and films
- Not listed as a separate item — included in the price
- Embroidery programme
- Charged once, then held in reserve
- Data format
- Vector data (AI, EPS, PDF with paths)
- Capacity
- Around 1.4 million printed parts per year on 15 screen-printing presses
The quantity is the first deciding factor
Every process has a point at which it becomes cost-effective. Transfer processes such as Flex and DTF are cost-effective even for single items, as no tools need to be prepared — ideal for latecomers, prototypes or small teams.
Screen printing turns this logic on its head: the preparation work for each colour only pays off when produced in large quantities, but the unit price then falls significantly. As a rule of thumb, for medium-sized print runs with just a few distinct colours, screen printing is the most cost-effective solution per item.
Embroidery falls somewhere in between. The embroidery design is charged for once; after that, it is stored and there is no further charge for it on repeat orders. This is precisely why embroidery is often the most sensible choice for corporate clothing that is reordered over the years.
| Procedure | A sensible starting point | Colours | Strength |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cut-transfer (flex) | One-off item | Single colour per sheet | Names, numbers, short series |
| DTF transfer | One-off item | Full colour | Photographic subjects, colour gradients, small quantities |
| DTG Direct Printing | One-off item | Full colour | A soft look on cotton |
| Direct embroidery | Small-batch production | Multicoloured with yarns | Exceptional durability, elegant appearance |
| Screen printing | Medium to large print runs | A clearly defined number of colours | Lowest unit price for bulk orders |
| Screen-printing transfer | Small-batch production | A clearly defined number of colours | Highly durable, even in tricky areas |
| Sublimation | One-off item | Full colour, borderless | Jerseys, sports designs covering the entire surface |
The material sets the limits
Not every technique is suitable for every fabric. With softshell and hardshell jackets, embroidery in areas where waterproofing is critical is tricky because the needle can puncture the membrane — in such cases, a heat transfer is the safer option.
Polyester and technical fabrics present a second problem: if the temperature is too high, dyes migrate from the fabric into the print and cause it to discolour — a process known as ‘bleeding’. That is why we use low-temperature transfers or special blocking dyes for this.
Highly textured surfaces such as fleece or terry cloth, on the other hand, are not well suited to direct printing because the ink sinks into the texture. In such cases, embroidery or an appliqué badge will produce a neat result.
How long the finish lasts
The most durable options are embroidery and screen-printed transfers. Embroidery generally withstands industrial washing at high temperatures and is therefore the first choice for the catering industry, the care sector and all businesses that use an external laundry service.
As a general guide, screen printing can withstand a large number of domestic washes at 40 to 60 degrees. Transfer and DTF prints do not last as long, but they retain their appearance for much longer if washed inside out and without using a tumble dryer.
Important for the calculation: it is not the finish that looks best on the first day that matters, but how it looks after two years of use.
How to recognise good quality
With printed garments, cracks or flaking after just a few washes are the clearest warning signs. The same applies to blurred edges, fabric dye bleeding through and a feel like stiff plastic film — good prints are flexible and move with the body.
In embroidery, quality is evident from clean outlines, a tight stitch density and a background that does not pucker. Warping of the fabric and loose threads are signs of a poorly digitised embroidery programme.
What information we need
We work best with vector data: AI, EPS or PDF files with fonts converted to paths. This allows any design to be scaled without any loss of quality — from a chest logo right through to the back panel. We then use this to create the embroidery programme.
The most common stumbling block is pixel-based images with too low a resolution, such as a JPG from a presentation. Logos with soft colour gradients present a similar challenge: what works on screen cannot be reproduced exactly as it is in screen printing or embroidery and must first be adapted.
Pre-processing is included in the price for up to 15 minutes. Those who provide clean vector data will generally take less than that.
Frequently asked questions
Which is more durable — embroidery or printing?
Embroidery is the most durable option and can generally withstand industrial washing. When it comes to printing, screen-printed transfers are the closest alternative to embroidery.
At what minimum order quantity does screen printing become cost-effective?
Screen printing really comes into its own with large print runs: for medium to large runs with just a few distinct colours, the unit price is the most cost-effective. For one-off items and small batches, transfer methods such as flex or DTF are more cost-effective.
Are there any costs for screens or the embroidery programme?
We do not charge separately for screens, films and other equipment — these are included in the price. The embroidery programme is charged once; it is then kept on file and is not charged again for repeat orders.
Can you embroider softshell jackets?
This is tricky in areas where sealing is critical, as the needle pierces the membrane. In such cases, we recommend using a transfer. In non-critical areas, embroidery is possible.
Which technique is best suited to photorealistic images?
DTF transfer and DTG direct-to-garment printing reproduce photo motifs and colour gradients in full colour. For full-surface designs on jerseys, sublimation is the ideal technique — available from as little as one item.
In what format should we provide our logo?
Preferably as a vector file (AI, EPS or PDF with fonts converted to paths). Low-resolution raster images and logos with smooth gradients must be pre-processed before production.